Lambic 3 - Turbid Mash
Normally summer brewing isn't my thing, but brewing outside on a cool June day at my parents' house in Massachusetts is a completely different experience from brewing in my sweltering DC apartment. This year's batch makes it three summers in a row I have brewed a lambic on my summer vacation. I enjoyed the last two brewdays so much that this year I decided to extend it by making my first attempt at a traditional turbid mash schedule.
The basic idea of a turbid mash is to draw off some of the wort during the mash, holding it hot before adding it back to reach the mash out. This liquid (because it is drawn off early and held too hot for the enzymes to work) still has starches and other complex molecules that are usually broken down before the end of the mash. These molecules are part of the reason that a traditionally made lambic takes several years to ferment as wave after wave of microbes slowly tear apart the large molecules (creating sourness and complexity as byproducts of their effort).
I was surprised that the mash regimen, while labor intensive, did not take THAT much longer than the Wyeast (cereal) lambic mash I had used for my previous two batches of lambic (probably just over 2 hours from dough-in to sparge). What I did not expect was the big drop in efficiency I experienced. The previous batches each hit 90%+ owing to the hot sparge and long boil (which allows for extra runnings to be collected). While this mash had a similar sparge and boil the starches were not fully gelatinized. Despite the fact that turbid mash is that it calls for raw (ungelatinize) wheat, you do not boil or otherwise swell/burst the starch granules during the process (which would allows the enzymes access to the starch).The basic idea of a turbid mash is to draw off some of the wort during the mash, holding it hot before adding it back to reach the mash out. This liquid (because it is drawn off early and held too hot for the enzymes to work) still has starches and other complex molecules that are usually broken down before the end of the mash. These molecules are part of the reason that a traditionally made lambic takes several years to ferment as wave after wave of microbes slowly tear apart the large molecules (creating sourness and complexity as byproducts of their effort).
For my microbes this year I added a package of Wyeast Roeselare along with a cup of slurry from last year's batch (half of which was bottled with the rest racked onto raspberries and dark cherries). That batch has a great aroma, but is a bit lacking in sourness (most likely due to the high alcohol content).
While the turbid mash didn't take too much longer than a standard mash it did involve many more steps, rests, and twists (what did kill my entire day was the 5.5 hour boil I needed to reduce the 9 gallons of pre-boil wort down to 5). Hopefully the pictures along with each step will help to make it easier to follow than the (similar) text descriptions found in either Wild Brews, and The Cult of the Biohazard Lambic Brewers.
A Pictorial Turbid Mash
The 5 gallon mash tun, empty at the start of the day.

My big kettle started with the entire (milled) grist, 5.25 lbs of German pils and 2.75 lbs of raw hard winter wheat (a softer wheat would probably be ideal, but I couldn't find any raw).

The small kettle got spring water, heated up to 144 F. The instructions I was following called for a total of 4 gallons of water for the mash, but I started with more to account for any evaporation or adjustments to the mash temperature (which came in handy).
First 2.5 qrts of the 144 F water was mixed into the grain, to get the mash to 113 F. This is a very low water to grain ratio (.3 qrts/lb), so there was not much free liquor. Grain holds onto about .4 qrts/lb at the end of the mash, so really this step just gets the grain damp (basically no free liquid).

I mixed the water and grain together in my big kettle before transferring it into the mash tun to ensure it was thoroughly wet (the manifold in my mash tun can get in the way).

The water in the kettle was then heated to a boil and held there for the rest of the infusions.
After letting the mash rest for 20 minutes I added 4 qrts of boiling water to it to get it up to 136 F.

After 5 minutes I pulled 1 qrt of wort from the mash using the spigot (I did a brief vorlauf to remove any large chunks of grain). The 1 qrt of "turbid" wort was heated to 176 F in the big kettle to halt any enzymatic action.

Right after pulling the 1 qrt of wort I added 6 qrts of the boiling liquid to get the mash up to 150 F.

After 30 minutes I pulled 4 more quarts of wort from the mash (through the spigot again) and combined it with the wort I had pulled earlier in big kettle. I put the pot back on the heat to get it back up to 176 F.

Right after pulling the second portion of turbid wort, I added another 5 qrts of boiling water to get the mash up to 162 F.

With the final infusion complete I topped the small kettle back up, and cranked the heat to get the water up to 185 F for the sparge.
Finally I added all of the 176 F starchy wort from the big kettle to get the main mash up to 165 F (167 F was the target, but it took me more water than called for to hit my mash temps). This is hot enough that the enzymes should not work on the starches added back to the mash (preserving them for the fermentation). After about 10 minutes I then started the vorlauf (I used a piece of aluminum foil with holes poked in it to prevent the grain bed from being disturbed).

After 10 minutes recirculating the wort I started the sparge, draining from the mash tun into the big kettle, with the mash water staying hot on the turkey fryer.

90 minutes later, with the sparge complete and ~9 gallons of 1.024 runnings collected I put the big kettle on the burner and put the spurs to it. It still took about an hour to get the wort to a boil due to the large volume and underpowered burner.

I had picked out some Hallertau Selects because they had such low AA% (1.5 when they were fresh), perfect for this brew since I have been too lazy to age any hops.

I added the hops just as the boil was starting.

Even with the large volume of very hot sparge water my efficiency wasn't great and it took .5 lbs of light dry malt extract to get me up to my target OG of 1.048. Assuming the same efficiency (74%) 5.75 lbs of pils and 3 lbs of wheat would have gotten me there (along with 10% more water at each step of the mash). With the 5.5 hour boil completed, the wort chilled to 68 with my immersion chiller, and the hops strained out, I drained the wort into a 6 gallon Better Bottle.

Once the transfer was complete I pitched a pack of Wyeast's Roeselare Blend along with a cup of slurry from last summer's lambic. Fermentation took off quickly, and after a few days added 1 oz of house toast Hungarian oak which I had boiled in water for 30 minutes to reduce the tannins.
I'll figure out if all the work was worth it when I try the beer next summer.
Lambic 3.0
Recipe Specifics (All-Grain)
----------------
Batch Size (Gal): 5.25
Total Grain (Lbs): 8.50
Anticipated OG: 1.048
Anticipated SRM: 3.5
Anticipated IBU: 12.9
Brewhouse Efficiency: 74 %
Wort Boil Time: 330 Minutes
Grain/Extract
---------------
5.25 lbs. German Pilsener
2.75 lbs. White Wheat
0.50 lbs. Muntons DME - Light
Hops
-----
3.00 oz. Hallertauer Select @ 330 min.
Extras
-------
1.00 Oz House Toast Hungarian Oak Cubes
Yeast
-----
WYeast 3763 Roeselare Yeast + Slurry (Wyeast Lambic Blend, Russian River Chips, 3F Gueuze)
Water Profile
-------------
Spring Water
Mash Schedule
-------------
Turbid Mash - See description
Notes
-----
Brewed 6/29/09 By myself
Raw hard winter wheat from Whole Foods used in the mash. Bottled spring water used with no adjustments. Traditional turbid mash employed.
Collected ~9 gallons of 1.024 runnings. Super long boil because it just simmered for the first hour or two on my turkey fryer. Added 1.5% AA poly bag stored hops at the start of the boil. Added DME to compensate for lower than expected extraction near the end.
Chilled to around 68 then pitched most of a pack of Roeselare and about a cup of slurry from lambic 2.0. Fermentation took off quickly in my parent's storage closest which was in the mid-60s ambient. After a few days added 1 oz of house toast Hungarian oak which I had boiled in water for 30 minutes to mellow.
10/14/10 Racked 2 gallons of the beer onto 2 lbs of Cabernet Sauvignon grapes.
10/15/10 Bottled the remaining 3 gallons with 3.5 oz of table sugar.
3/23/11 Ended up a bit more carbonated than I expected, but the flavors are great (funk, citrus, minerals). Sourness is a bit lacking, but still a great beer.

29 comments:
I've been waiting for this post for a while. I've got a turbid mash lambic, also with Roselare (and some dregs) that's been in the fermenter since mid-may. Hopefully these things are worth all the time spent mashing and boiling down.
Was the schedule you used mostly from Wild Brews? Did you change anything?
Yeah, I've been sitting on those pictures for a month trying to find the time to toss this post together.
I used the Biohazard schedule (Cantillon from Brewing Techniques) for the most part. It had hard volume which I found easier to deal with. Wild Brews uses percentages, which is easy enough for the infusions, but instructions like "remove 33% of the liquid from the mash" seemed pretty tough to get right.
Wild Brews and Biohazard had pretty similar schedules, although Wild Brews was a bit more aggressive with the amount of liquid pulled and the temperature it was held at (which would improve efficiency).
I had to add extra water several times to hit my temperatures, but other than that I didn't really make any changes.
Good luck on your brew! What is another 5 hours on a beer that takes a year or two?
Where are you finding your Hallertau Selects? I have read you mention these for your lambics several times, and I have not yet found them in any LHBS (not that you are anywhere near me) or any online store.
I have been tinkering with artificially aging hops, but it is more work than I would want to do if I get the same results with the selects.
I had actually bought some ~3% AA Hersbrucker to use, but I needed to make a quick run to Strange Brew (http://www.home-brew.com) after I went up to MA for a carboy and they had Selects for ~$2/oz. The first time I ordered them through Northern Brewer, not sure if they still have them.
Honestly unless you are doing a spontaneous fermentation I don’t think it is worth the effort to age hops because you don’t have to worry about rogue microbes taking over the fermentation.
Aren't you an accountant? 33% is 1/3rd. :)
Let me know how this goes. Also what temp do you rest these at?
Now that I'm a new homeowner I was all about OH I CAN LAGER NOW.
My basement stays at 70F. :(
My point was how you figure out what 33% (1/3) of the liquid in the mash means without draining the whole thing? You could do an estimate, but I wanted to have the values.
This one is sitting in a room off my parents' garage, probably in the low 70. Few lambic brewers have any temp control, the seasonal change contributes to the character of their beers.
Also on a completely unrelated note: I'm digging the posts with more pictures in them.
Mike,
Time for you to buy a banjo burner. I can get 9 gallons of wort boiled down to 5.5 gal in 90 minutes, depending on humidity. 5.5 hrs to boil down is a huge drag on an otherwise great brew day.
I am closing on a house next Tuesday, so I will certainly be getting a new brewing rig in the near future.
Mike, any idea why I am getting more than double your IBU calculation when I plug 3 ounces of 1.5% hops in for 330 min?
We are probably just using different formulas. I forget what my ProMash is set to use, what are you using?
ProMash as well. I think I need to drop the boil time to under an hour to get your numbers with the same quantity (by ratio since I am scaling up to 60 Gal)
I am using the Tinseth with a 1.15 concentration factor. What formula is your ProMash set to?
I don't know if ProMash takes it into account, but larger boils do a better job with hop utilization.
Good to re-read this and your Lambic 2.0 posts... found them again when doing a google for 'turbid mash' - you're right up there.
My thoughts are turning to Lambics at this time of year as the cherry trees in the garden here are teeming with underripe fruit. I've also bought in a load of wheat berries (for feeding to chickens!) and have sacks of old wild hops left from 2007/2008 harvests.
Everything is in place I guess... time to give it a whirl and get the base beer made. When it comes round to 2011 I'll be ready and waiting for those cherries!
Sounds awesome, I've been thinking about planting a couple cherry trees at my house. I wonder if there is anyway to get my hands on a Schaerbeek, the traditional type used in Kriek...
I just started the boil for a kriek based primarily on this turbid mash schedule. Some mash temps needed some adjusting, but I nailed a couple too. In the spring I'll be adding the 2010 and 2011 crop of tart cherries from my tree. Thanks for posting this.
Glad to hear, hope it turns out well. I’ve been wanting to plant a couple sour cherry trees in my backyard, but haven’t gotten around to it yet.
I just bottled this batch a couple weeks ago (and put half onto Cabernet grapes), after less than two weeks the carbonation was already at or above where I wanted it… hopefully the Champagne yeast was just quick.
I brewed a Lambic today combining this brew schedule and some JZ/BN tips and got some great looking/smelling wort. Eleven hours from milling to pitching without any snags, and year old attic aged hops but it will be worth it (and it was fun). My nearly year old Lambic based on your Lambic 2.0/3.0 smells great too in the carboy. Thanks for the posts throughout the years!
Glad to hear! Are you planning on a vertical blending, Gueuze type beer? That's my eventual goal, not sure I'll ever make Lambic to do it though.
Are you just switching on and off the same burner?
Yep, just switching the pots back and forth although it would certainly be easier with a second burner.
Looking to brew a beer with bugs. Either a Lambic or Flanders Red. A bit confused about what to brew in. There seems to be three options. Listened to Jamils podcast on Flanders Reds and he suggests using a plastic bucket and letting it sit for a year or more there. His podcast on Lambics is more sketchy and does not say what he ferments in. There are guys who seem to stick a skinny oak stick into the bong and have it go into the beer in a glass carboy -this scares me. There are others who seemed to use an large oak plug in the glass carboy, not sticking into the beer. Others seem to just use a regular glass carboy with an airlock. Do you have any suggestions based on your brewing experience with these types of beers?
Thanks
Bill
No offence to Jamil and all he has done getting homebrewers to brew better beer, but the advice I have heard from him on sour beers is usually lacking. He seems to try to apply the same basic rules and techniques that work for clean beers, and that is a mistake. You can make a mediocre sour beer with his suggestions, but it won’t be great.
I think the oxygen transfer issue has been blown way out of proportion. For your first batch a carboy or better bottle with an airlock is the safest way to age the beer. The big risk with a bucket is that you will not have a good indication if the seal is letting air in. They are fine for primary, but I would avoid them for long term aging
I tried the oak peg thing years ago and had issues (cracked carboy) and even when it worked passed through a stopper the results were no better than using an airlock and oak cubes. If you like a vinegary character in your reds (which is what a high amount of oxygen during aging will get you) I would get it from blending in some beer aged in an open vessel.
Hope that helps, good luck!
Thanks Mike
Bit more nervous about doing this one as it is such a long time before you get feedback from your beer as to whether you treated it right. Was going to try the Turbid mash schedule using whole wheat I got at my local Coop. Maybe do a cereal mash first with the wheat. A bit worried as heading into winter and my basement is in the 50's during this time, St Paul MN
Mike, Did you use UNMALTED wheat? If so, do you have any idea what to plug into Beersmith for Yield Potential, etc?
Thanks
Yes, unmalted, and even more specifically wheat that had not been flaked or torrified. You do not want the starches to be gelatinized, which allows some to be carried through into the wort.
RE: Turbid Mash. Any reason not to do straight decoctions for each temperature step? Is there a reason not to boil the decocted portion for a lambic?
Have any pictures of a glass of the finished product?
There is a link at the very bottom of the post to the tasting notes (which includes a picture).
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