tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8066877917844499643.post5560460537366630521..comments2024-02-23T15:34:32.816-05:00Comments on The Mad Fermentationist - Homebrewing Blog: Australian NEIPA: Spunding, and Dry YeastThe Mad Fermentationist (Mike)http://www.blogger.com/profile/07379932734747507258noreply@blogger.comBlogger29125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8066877917844499643.post-19984371764859329552017-11-22T14:50:23.442-05:002017-11-22T14:50:23.442-05:00Not before kegging. I'd rather take over some ...Not before kegging. I'd rather take over some gunk into the keg rather than risk air being sucked into the fermentor. There are solutions to this, and no harm if you have a good one.The Mad Fermentationist (Mike)https://www.blogger.com/profile/07379932734747507258noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8066877917844499643.post-17594526639654421922017-11-21T15:58:34.691-05:002017-11-21T15:58:34.691-05:00Do you cold crash your NEIPAs?Do you cold crash your NEIPAs?Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13032513139356566376noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8066877917844499643.post-59693896687946477272017-10-20T16:52:00.175-04:002017-10-20T16:52:00.175-04:00I don't have much experience with Windsor. The...I don't have much experience with Windsor. They might be able to give you a suggestion on a good mash temperature (around 150F I'd guess). Might be better in a APA than a DIPA though, where the low attenuation is more of an asset. If you try it, let me know how it goes! Sounds like there are a couple dried Conan cultures in the works too!The Mad Fermentationist (Mike)https://www.blogger.com/profile/07379932734747507258noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8066877917844499643.post-11173700062786888492017-10-19T21:52:09.845-04:002017-10-19T21:52:09.845-04:00Local brew shop recommend Windsor yeast for my NEI...Local brew shop recommend Windsor yeast for my NEIPA but is the attenuation too low on this yeast?-Matthew-https://www.blogger.com/profile/03330751302457467033noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8066877917844499643.post-55135007393905865072017-08-27T22:57:38.058-04:002017-08-27T22:57:38.058-04:00The valve often won't respond until the pressu...The valve often won't respond until the pressure is high enough for gas to vent. Pressurize the keg with CO2, attach the spunding valve and loosen it until some gas escapes. If that doesn't work you may need to contact Austin. The lines on my valve are off enough to be essentially useless anyway.The Mad Fermentationist (Mike)https://www.blogger.com/profile/07379932734747507258noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8066877917844499643.post-56544321082446763062017-08-27T18:53:48.397-04:002017-08-27T18:53:48.397-04:00Extremely stupid question; I bought Austin Homebre...Extremely stupid question; I bought Austin Homebrew Supply's spunding valves. While the item created from homebrewfinds has a way to set, mine just has a knob to open and close the valve to adjust. When my keg is under any pressure with the spunding valve, the gauge goes right to zero. Is there something I'm doing wrong? I don't know if you can help, but I figure I'd ask.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/18156599192884450049noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8066877917844499643.post-51336258944875957862017-05-20T04:02:01.630-04:002017-05-20T04:02:01.630-04:00Hey Mike,
You can add space to your bucket by fitt...Hey Mike,<br />You can add space to your bucket by fitting the domed lid from the chronical line. Sold separately on the SS brewing website but you will also be committing to a 3" TC on the top of the dome lidAnonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00899061070558613959noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8066877917844499643.post-17709757121448007562017-05-05T07:34:53.999-04:002017-05-05T07:34:53.999-04:00What do you mean specifically by "hop flavor&...What do you mean specifically by "hop flavor"? It certainly doesn't make bitterness pop like high sulfate, but you could always up the IBUs if you find that lacking. I've never had a problem achieving that saturated hop flavor in these beers.The Mad Fermentationist (Mike)https://www.blogger.com/profile/07379932734747507258noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8066877917844499643.post-87088466506785931742017-05-03T00:38:29.543-04:002017-05-03T00:38:29.543-04:00I find chloride in high concentrations mutes hop f...I find chloride in high concentrations mutes hop flavor, yes it does create a great mouthfeel but at the expense flavor.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8066877917844499643.post-88057829765110257242017-04-19T04:15:05.572-04:002017-04-19T04:15:05.572-04:00Thanks for the reply!! I've done a couple of b...Thanks for the reply!! I've done a couple of beers with late hop additions, and also hop stand at 75-80° (chilling first). I'm looking forward to doing a beer with first / only hops after boil out, since my experience is that hops do extract a considerable bitterness after boilout,will be interesting! (Beersmith doesn't calculate any IBU with boilout hops, strangely!) Cheers!Kelihttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00457216547999054572noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8066877917844499643.post-59800998428213486182017-04-18T07:40:59.909-04:002017-04-18T07:40:59.909-04:00Exactly, hops in right at flame-out and they sit t...Exactly, hops in right at flame-out and they sit there until I turn the chiller on after 30 minutes. It isn't a technique specific to NEIPA, it's how essentially all commercial breweries add whirlpool hops. It just works well here where the goal is to maximize hop flavor without excessive bitterness. This can be a tricky step to dial in as larger batches retain heat longer and extract more bitterness. The difference between 5-10 gallons isn't great compared to a commercial batch, but if you are brewing outside in winter that'll mean quicker cooling. <br /><br />Cheers!The Mad Fermentationist (Mike)https://www.blogger.com/profile/07379932734747507258noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8066877917844499643.post-42733996657043120072017-04-17T11:05:04.011-04:002017-04-17T11:05:04.011-04:00One quick question: I have not brewed a NEIPA yet....One quick question: I have not brewed a NEIPA yet. Is my understanding correct that you put the first hops right after boiloff? And then you do a 30 min hopstand, letting the wort cool naturally?<br /><br />By the way, thanks for an awesome website, it has been extremely helpful for a starting brewer! Two of your recipes became a inspiration for my brewing and turned out excellent!Kelinoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8066877917844499643.post-74141924140703071262017-04-09T16:02:37.176-04:002017-04-09T16:02:37.176-04:00Have you found any difference between the standard...Have you found any difference between the standard Quaker quick coats vs the bobs steel cut?Bekie & Danhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16648589455861047777noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8066877917844499643.post-19313604154565611582017-04-07T12:18:12.403-04:002017-04-07T12:18:12.403-04:00Thanks for the reply about mashing the oats. I alr...Thanks for the reply about mashing the oats. I already buy Bob's Organic Quick Steel Cut Oats by the 7 lb. bag at Costco, so this is good to know.Aaronhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11511912198890930847noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8066877917844499643.post-63301508070499927802017-04-06T17:57:50.808-04:002017-04-06T17:57:50.808-04:00Yeah...I don't change to an air lock. So the ...Yeah...I don't change to an air lock. So the amount of time spent cleaning the blow off set up is similar to cleaning an airlock. Especially since I'm doing a hot PBW soak on the bucket...just throw the blow off pieces (I don't take apart the stainless bits) in the there, soak, sanitize and assemble for the next batch.<br />Stevehttp://www.laundrybrewing.com/noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8066877917844499643.post-53588438633405959172017-04-06T17:24:41.547-04:002017-04-06T17:24:41.547-04:00Certainly an option... but after five years of not...Certainly an option... but after five years of not having to setup, manage, and clean a blow-off it is an annoyance!The Mad Fermentationist (Mike)https://www.blogger.com/profile/07379932734747507258noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8066877917844499643.post-63978896529096975392017-04-06T17:23:06.153-04:002017-04-06T17:23:06.153-04:00I got my usual efficiency, so it sends these oats ...I got my usual efficiency, so it sends these oats are fine to add as is. The Mad Fermentationist (Mike)https://www.blogger.com/profile/07379932734747507258noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8066877917844499643.post-85971234065320508182017-04-06T17:14:34.640-04:002017-04-06T17:14:34.640-04:00Mike,
I use the SS Brewbucket also (the 2.5 gallo...Mike,<br /><br />I use the SS Brewbucket also (the 2.5 gallon version). My friend came up with a great blow off set up and I've had no problems. Here's a link to a post with a picture of the set up: http://www.laundrybrewing.com/2017/03/nelson-pale-ale.html<br /><br />It's uses the 1/2" hose barb that Brewtech sales and some other parts from various retailers. It also doubles as a way to push the beer during transfer.Stevehttp://www.laundrybrewing.com/noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8066877917844499643.post-33453428212791331392017-04-05T15:43:25.058-04:002017-04-05T15:43:25.058-04:00No special processing is needed for the quick stee...No special processing is needed for the quick steel cut oats? Just mash them with the rest of your grains?Aaronhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11511912198890930847noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8066877917844499643.post-12814337395354329842017-04-04T18:01:00.788-04:002017-04-04T18:01:00.788-04:00I don't feel quite so bad about using almost h...I don't feel quite so bad about using almost half a bottle of starsan now , perhaps should do it every 20 -25 brews as a precaution . Way cheaper than loosing a batch garydyke1https://www.blogger.com/profile/13141924661396056632noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8066877917844499643.post-62060742657427280792017-04-04T17:48:39.381-04:002017-04-04T17:48:39.381-04:00I like to get it off the trub rather thank trying ...I like to get it off the trub rather thank trying to get all of the yeast/hop material out through the tap. I'm fine leaving it in the conditioning keg with the final dose of dry hops.<br /><br />I generally avoid posting my full mineral profile because I don't think my precise numbers are ideal. I dilute with distilled to around 50 PPM of carbonate, but if your water is at 25 PPM I wouldn't suggest adding chalk or baking soda. For this batch I was 135 chloride and 115 sulfate (average of mash and sparge). I'm working on an article for BYO comparing my water profile to that of the finished beer, both tested by Ward Labs, should be interesting!<br /><br />My first batch I washed the BrewBucket with alkaline cleaner to remove any manufacturing grime, rinsed, and then did a standard StarSan sanitation (normal concentration, didn't let it dry). Yeah, nothing in the process seemed out of the ordinary, and the other half of the batch in a plastic fermentor was unaffected. The Mad Fermentationist (Mike)https://www.blogger.com/profile/07379932734747507258noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8066877917844499643.post-83114881346096965962017-04-04T17:25:10.551-04:002017-04-04T17:25:10.551-04:00Thats crazy about the oxidisation in the previous ...Thats crazy about the oxidisation in the previous brew from the stainless FV, did you use it straight out the box without starsan ? Guessing the rest of that brew (transferring etc) went without a hitch?garydyke1https://www.blogger.com/profile/13141924661396056632noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8066877917844499643.post-36851870863791486992017-04-04T16:07:55.596-04:002017-04-04T16:07:55.596-04:00Interesting. I guess I'll have to try some dr...Interesting. I guess I'll have to try some dry yeast. One thing that would probably help is to give us your ppm on chlorides, sulfates etc. Just giving us how much gypsum and calcium chloride really has no value without knowing your water and then plugging it into a calculator. Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8066877917844499643.post-69823904452511697252017-04-04T09:17:49.720-04:002017-04-04T09:17:49.720-04:00Hey Mike, about to transfer to keg with spunding v...Hey Mike, about to transfer to keg with spunding valve for first time. Would you see a need to transfer out of the keg that the fermentation finished in? I am dry hopping with 5 ounces of hops in a hop spider. Thanks for the perfect timing article!Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05714082420060259956noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8066877917844499643.post-84922467742360648592017-04-04T07:42:27.489-04:002017-04-04T07:42:27.489-04:00No phenolics or big ester character in this batch,...No phenolics or big ester character in this batch, but it is a bit "yeastier" than the other strains I've used in NEIPAs (WLP007, WY1318, Conan, and Trois). <br /><br />Haven't taken a final pH reading on this one. I'll take a reading next time I have the meter out and calibrated.<br /><br />This methods holds in more of the juicy/saturated hop aroma, but you sacrifice the raw "nose in the hop bag" character I achieve from adding dry hops to fully-fermented beer. I wouldn't say one is better than the other, different techniques for different results. The Mad Fermentationist (Mike)https://www.blogger.com/profile/07379932734747507258noreply@blogger.com