tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8066877917844499643.post116190063500796165..comments2024-02-23T15:34:32.816-05:00Comments on The Mad Fermentationist - Homebrewing Blog: West Coast IPA Recipe - Hop Oil AnalysisThe Mad Fermentationist (Mike)http://www.blogger.com/profile/07379932734747507258noreply@blogger.comBlogger26125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8066877917844499643.post-20566036486157075182018-05-15T20:52:26.708-04:002018-05-15T20:52:26.708-04:00Congrats!
After brewing NEIPAs for the last thre...Congrats! <br /><br />After brewing NEIPAs for the last three years I should go back and rebrew this one!The Mad Fermentationist (Mike)https://www.blogger.com/profile/07379932734747507258noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8066877917844499643.post-64903316003071360562018-05-15T15:59:42.230-04:002018-05-15T15:59:42.230-04:00Thanks for the great recipe, this won me 1st place...Thanks for the great recipe, this won me 1st place in the IPA category out of 43 entries recently! Only thing I did different was use wy1098.Jeremynoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8066877917844499643.post-55560462499177518452016-08-17T17:45:43.789-04:002016-08-17T17:45:43.789-04:00I think the raw numbers are more important than th...I think the raw numbers are more important than the ratio. These days I am around 100-150 PPM for both chloride and sulfate, but that is for New England style. For West Coast, more like 200 PPM sulfate (and up), 50 PPM chloride (and down) to accentuate the bitterness and dryness. Best of luck!The Mad Fermentationist (Mike)https://www.blogger.com/profile/07379932734747507258noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8066877917844499643.post-63544476362430667822016-08-16T07:19:44.438-04:002016-08-16T07:19:44.438-04:00Hi Mike ..awosome blog.. thx for sharing.. I have ...Hi Mike ..awosome blog.. thx for sharing.. I have a question in regards of your sulfate/chloride ratio for your hoppy beers.. Do you target a number? Do you care..? Thanks and keep doing this awosome research... Tavo<br />Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10019143557612796240noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8066877917844499643.post-77546510929538884012016-01-16T20:14:08.668-05:002016-01-16T20:14:08.668-05:00I just took a sample of this and it is INSANELY FR...I just took a sample of this and it is INSANELY FREAKING GOOD!!! Thanks so much for sharing this recipe.Tedhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13959870439313456169noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8066877917844499643.post-14610344237110749422014-03-09T20:51:21.445-04:002014-03-09T20:51:21.445-04:00Just got this (with a couple of changes based on a...Just got this (with a couple of changes based on available equipment) in the fermenter and am very excited. My local beer paradise was out of hop extract so added .5 oz Columbus at 60 min to compensate.<br /><br />Also, steeped 2 gallons of sparge in 2 oz. centennial and 1 oz. citra for 30 min at 150 degrees in addition to the back hop. <br /><br />Looking forward to the taste test, thanks much for this recipe!Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12293832967740603342noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8066877917844499643.post-26370899481229610382013-10-26T00:56:05.443-04:002013-10-26T00:56:05.443-04:00Just read the 80 min, 4X20min additions thought an...Just read the 80 min, 4X20min additions thought and will try it now. Am brewing in two kettles, so I'll do that with one half, and a 30 min hop stand with the other.<br /><br />This is a great looking brew, 20 min to go on the boil, I'm excited.Alison Wrighthttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07561596486726554858noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8066877917844499643.post-31412170278161732312013-02-15T17:02:24.956-05:002013-02-15T17:02:24.956-05:00Farnesene is a pretty much irrelevant essential oi...Farnesene is a pretty much irrelevant essential oil when it comes to IPAs. Most American varieties have less than 1%. It is much more prominent in noble hops, although there is plenty of debate over how important its flavor contributions actually are.<br /><br />From Brad’s article, it is actually myrcene (which is very prominent in hops like Amarillo, Citra, Cascade, as well as many of the Southern Hemisphere varieties) listed with a boiling point of 147 F. However, most other sources list it as boiling at 333 F (167 C). However, my understanding is that this it will still volatilize at temperatures well below that.<br /><br />I add the hop-stand addition right after the boil ends, and allow it to sit for the prescribed length without force chilling. As I tend to skip any other late-boil additions, this is what gives my beers a longer-lasting, more saturated hop flavor. I found without an extended hop addition at/near boiling, my hop aroma did not permeate so completely into flavor. This was my complaint when using the standard flame-out and chill as fast as possible method advocated by Jamil and others.<br /><br />By the time the hop-stand is complete the wort is usually down to about 180 F. When the wort runs through the hop-back on the way to the plate chiller, the shorter/enclosed exposure at a lower temperature, prevents the loss of the more volatile hop aromatics. Dry hopping is also the best way to the fresh “green” myrcene aromatics in my experience.<br /><br />I’ve heard some discussion about trying lower whirlpool (hop stand) temperatures for hop additions from a couple brewers, like Jeff O’Neil at Peekskill, but never tried it myself. With the more rapid natural cooling of homebrewed wort (given the lower volume) it might be worth doing an 80 minute hop stand with ¼ of the flame-out hops added ever 20 minutes (or something like that) to get the full range of hop aromatics. Interested to hear your results if you get around to doing an experiment.The Mad Fermentationist (Mike)https://www.blogger.com/profile/07379932734747507258noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8066877917844499643.post-17019816762008527352013-02-15T00:44:03.567-05:002013-02-15T00:44:03.567-05:00Mike, when you recirculate or use a hopstand what ...Mike, when you recirculate or use a hopstand what temperature range do you shoot for? I recently read a great article on the Beersmith blog about farnesene having a boiloff temperature of 147 F. Do you whirlpool at or below this temp? I have been itching to run an experiment testing the difference in two batches with the only variable being the temperature of my whirlpool. Thoughts? Keep rockin man, I don't know how you post so much high quality content so often, I am hooked though!The Brewing Realtorhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08927415629512391464noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8066877917844499643.post-21239725595780148882013-01-11T16:48:50.781-05:002013-01-11T16:48:50.781-05:00Sounds like a great hop combo, Amanda! Last night ...Sounds like a great hop combo, Amanda! Last night I tasted a Mosaic heavy beer a friend brewed, seems like a great addition to an otherwise fruity/citrusy grain-bill.<br /><br />The accuracy of the hop oil percentages is something that is tough with the spreadsheet. I found large, and often conflicting ranges for many of the hops in there. I've noticed, and heard the same thing from several others, that there almost seem to be two kinds of Simcoe. One more tropical-mango, one more dank-pine. That might explain some of the discrepancy?The Mad Fermentationist (Mike)https://www.blogger.com/profile/07379932734747507258noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8066877917844499643.post-46673070729193061972013-01-11T13:30:58.965-05:002013-01-11T13:30:58.965-05:00I've checked two different sources and it appe...I've checked two different sources and it appears the Simcoe oil content in your xls might not be accurate - one of the links: <br />http://beerlegends.com/simcoe-hops<br /><br />Has anyone else checked the oil percentages for other hops on the list?bleefisnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8066877917844499643.post-79506693392864772552013-01-11T12:51:48.932-05:002013-01-11T12:51:48.932-05:00No question - just wanted to say thank you for an ...No question - just wanted to say thank you for an awesome blog, very in depth analysis and very timely advice.<br /><br />Working on a sessionable Simcoe/Centennial/Mosaic/Citra/Galaxy IPA recipe and this definitely answers a large portion of my questions.<br /><br />Cheers!Amandahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00467627727408328526noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8066877917844499643.post-19191297869777098332013-01-10T07:10:41.461-05:002013-01-10T07:10:41.461-05:00I do not chill the wort before I add the hop-stand...I do not chill the wort before I add the hop-stand hops. I just toss the hops in right after turning off the burner. I figure that extracts a certain set of compounds, and the hop-back extracts another considering by then the wort has usually naturally chilled to ~180-185 F by the end of the 30 minute hop stand.The Mad Fermentationist (Mike)https://www.blogger.com/profile/07379932734747507258noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8066877917844499643.post-54811062064460151832013-01-08T20:34:39.416-05:002013-01-08T20:34:39.416-05:00Are you cooling the wort before the hop stand, and...Are you cooling the wort before the hop stand, and if so, at what temperature do you cool the wort to?Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8066877917844499643.post-62887534785035141252012-12-06T09:11:52.376-05:002012-12-06T09:11:52.376-05:00Link works now thank you.Link works now thank you.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8066877917844499643.post-56612493479021561552012-12-05T22:54:58.698-05:002012-12-05T22:54:58.698-05:00The Whirlfloc mainly affects proteins. If anything...The Whirlfloc mainly affects proteins. If anything coagulating them before the hops go in will help prevent the pelletitzed hop material from serving as a substrate for protein collection. An occasional stir isn't a bad idea during the hop stand to keep the hops moving though.The Mad Fermentationist (Mike)https://www.blogger.com/profile/07379932734747507258noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8066877917844499643.post-53383289820995356892012-12-05T22:47:17.607-05:002012-12-05T22:47:17.607-05:00Someone caught an error with the original file (I ...Someone caught an error with the original file (I was double counting the fourth hop), so I deleted the old one and uploaded a fixed copy. Forgot I'd linked to it directly. Link should work now!The Mad Fermentationist (Mike)https://www.blogger.com/profile/07379932734747507258noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8066877917844499643.post-49576133983493930452012-12-05T19:32:06.665-05:002012-12-05T19:32:06.665-05:00Tried to donwload the XLS file but getting page no...Tried to donwload the XLS file but getting page not found.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8066877917844499643.post-77987950968007483342012-12-05T08:09:33.893-05:002012-12-05T08:09:33.893-05:00Regarding the Whirlfloc comment : I was actually w...Regarding the Whirlfloc comment : I was actually wondering if flocculating agents would prematurely precipitate hop material. Probably not when using whole hops, but could it be an issue with the use of pellets during a hop stand?<br />Thanks for the awesome blog.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8066877917844499643.post-68666176534169894672012-12-04T19:21:42.386-05:002012-12-04T19:21:42.386-05:00Excellent explanation, thank youExcellent explanation, thank youAdam Mcnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8066877917844499643.post-14985759498655242492012-12-04T17:49:25.173-05:002012-12-04T17:49:25.173-05:00For lower bitterness beers where I still want a sa...For lower bitterness beers where I still want a saturated hop flavor/aroma, I sometimes opt for the late boil hop-bursting additions to provide the bitterness. I find the bitterness from late boil additions to be pretty soft, so I choose earlier additions for beers I want to have a “grabbier” bitterness. I’ve recently started splitting the bittering addition between hop extract (HopShots) and Columbus, because extract tends to have lower/softer perceived bitterness as well.<br /><br />The combo of a hop-stand with either a second dose of hops added at the start of chilling or in a hop-back (lower temperature extraction), followed by two dry hoppings with the second addition in the keg, is working wonders for my hop-forward beers. I honestly don’t taste a huge amount from the late boil hops when there are also these additions made later in the process (which is to say if you want to save hops, skip the late boil additions and just bitter). Late boil additions are more valuable for moderately hoppy beers, like a saison or a pilsner I find.<br /><br />I do not recirculate during the hop stand. It would probably increase the aromatic yield from those hops, but in my case it would also require adding the hop-back inline after the recirc was complete. I will stir the wort every few minutes while it is resting to improve wort-hop contact.<br /><br />What is your concern with adding Whirlfloc followed by a hop stand? Whirlfloc is a kettle fining designed to coagulate proteins in the boil. It shouldn’t cause any conflict with the hop additions that follow. <br /><br />As for repitching, as long as my sanitation was good, what I harvested will still be a pure strain. Most craft breweries repitch the same yeast from batch- to-batch 8-10 times before buying a fresh culture, although some do it indefinitely to create a house strain. In this case it is much easier and cheaper to harvest a cup of slurry than it is to buy and propagate a fresh culture, especially when you time your batches correctly. Some brewers think it takes a few batches for the yeast to become adjusted and produce its best beer. Too long and you risk genetic drift, even if you prevent other microbes from invading.The Mad Fermentationist (Mike)https://www.blogger.com/profile/07379932734747507258noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8066877917844499643.post-50956962806689332782012-12-04T12:35:16.098-05:002012-12-04T12:35:16.098-05:00Why do you choose to harvest a yeast cake rather t...Why do you choose to harvest a yeast cake rather than use a starter from a pure strain?Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8066877917844499643.post-33504797411225869502012-12-04T10:56:10.541-05:002012-12-04T10:56:10.541-05:00Very cool stuff here. I've heard so many rave ...Very cool stuff here. I've heard so many rave reviews about Alpine's hoppy beers. I've got to get out there and taste them. <br /><br />One note about the spreadsheet. I put in the hop bill of the best hoppy beer I've brewed, and it falls in line very closely with Pliny. Crazy. Those guys definitely know a thing or two about hops. <br /><br />25% each of Cascade, Centennial at 10 mins. (1 oz each)<br /><br />and 50% of simcoe Dry hop. (2 oz.)RudeBoyBrewinghttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06742094571957647083noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8066877917844499643.post-44246839127249820952012-12-04T10:44:59.837-05:002012-12-04T10:44:59.837-05:00Do you recirculate during your hopstand?
Also, isn...Do you recirculate during your hopstand?<br />Also, isn't adding whirlfloc prior to the hopstand slightly counter-productive?Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8066877917844499643.post-26471824255887855942012-12-04T08:29:48.063-05:002012-12-04T08:29:48.063-05:00Can you walk us through how you select what type o...Can you walk us through how you select what type of beers will get 20,15,10 min additions and which get just the hopstand/hopback/dryhop only?<br /><br />I learned from the brett IPA that you can get a lot of flavor from a hopstand/dryhop combo and have been focusing on that. Just wondering how you decide which beers get late boil additions.Adam Mcnoreply@blogger.com